Monday, August 2, 2010
Lastly, the trip home via Kamakura, Japan
The boot is on the other foot, taking photos of tourists in Japan by friendly passers by. You might see that Henry's neck was sore from Rome. All fine now.
The giant buddha, washed off its wall by a tsunami in 1944 or there abouts. The temples around it were destroyed too.
As Tokyo was frightfully expensive and very busy, we thought an easier stop over was reqiured. So we took the fast train for 2 hours to Kamakura, an old village now co-joined to Tokyo. It was once the capital of Edo when the shoguns were the rulers of Japan for 300 odd years and outsiders were not allowed. The people were the friendliest we had yet met as a group. Complete strangers would come up to you and talk for ages about where you were from and then in detail about New Zealand. If they could only speak Japanese they were still very friendly. But even the cheap sushi bars were very dear! It was tropically warm and humid and after the first day it rained on and off. Still the umbrellas make a nice picture. No views of the volcanoes though.
A holiday within a holiday in Umbria
It was hot in Umbria, evidently hotter than you should expect. We had a lovely pool so it was quite hard to get in the car and talk George into visiting a church! It was lovely to be with Bronwyn and Andrew, Rachel and Ben and do some grown up talking and superb eating. We went paddling in Lake Trasimeno. It was as hot in the water and out as the lake is no more than 7m deep. The paddlers saw some dice snakes swimming about and catching fish. We looked forward to our home or THQ (temp. headquaters as Henry would have it) with the pool again. Incidentally the place we were staying at is for sale 1.25 million euros, 5 acres with pool and 8 bedrooms in two apartments. Interested anyone? Your own olive trees and bottling room. I don't seem to be able to find a picture of us swimming and eating and there was plenty of it too.
Everything was very neat and tidy, with hardly any tourists. We had come to expect crowds, especially since it was the holidays then. George was impressed that St Francis church (San Francesco Basicilla) was two churches in one. The Giotto frescos of St Francis’s life were interesting and underneath the church is another church with his altar and tomb under that in the crypt. Sadly we bought our postcards after the crypt or we could have had them blessed for a small fee. We also visited the new Duomo church. It had a hole in the forecourt. (Glassed over) Underneath are roman ruins that became visible after an earthquake opened the ground. It was largely hollow underneath. The last church was St Clares or Chiara who met St Francis or Frank as he was back then and thought his renouncement of material things was all good. She started her own order for the women “the poor Clares” and was good at her work. So they built a church for her too when she died. It is a copy of the bloke’s one but not so well built in that they had to add extra large buttresses to stop it falling down. They also kept some of her hair and her clothes so it was fascinating to see her habits from 1253. The bascillica had frescos also in the Giotto style from his school of painters. But perhaps "The Church" was worried about the women getting too many art admiring visitors and they chipped off most of the art work!
A horse display was visiting our town and they gave pony rides.
Another horse that doesn't make your eyes run was also popular.Our landlord, Lucca has has own gourmet shop. The hams, salamis, mozzarella, and melons were great with free home grown olive oil and white truffles.
A restaurant in San Gimignano where the owner was very friendly, but it was hot. We poured our own water down our shirts when he wasn't looking. Just a little bit to be sure. We tried to discuss excellent pizza making with his wife down in the hot room, but it was a bit tricky to understand.San Gimignano has 14 of its original 76 13th century towers! Not only that but they have rebuilt the town from 1300 when it was in its heyday in a large room entirely accurately and out of ceramics. The associated displays and tour guide was brilliant. This is why the focus gives the scale away above.
Sunday, August 1, 2010
Museums, all by the intrepid editor
This is the British Museum from the outside, the architecture is classical and in front there was a display of hot climate plants.
Not only that but they have incredible dinosaur displays too. Spot the tourist taking photos with the Science Museum Shop carry bag. We bought some flying things and a mini microscope. There were so many great things you could buy. The flying remote control helicopters were something George and Max really wanted to bring home.
An Apollo landing craft.
Holland
Outside the Musee (Museum) d'Orsay was a sculpture of Durer's rhino print. Durer was great artist who drew and painted lots of lovely animals. For his rhino print he hadn't seen a rhino but was working from descriptions, so it is not quite right. Still it is pretty groovey! The Musee d'Orsay was really good. It was not too big but had impressionist paintings, a model of the theatre, and "Dante' and Virgil in Hell", which you could look up. It is truly horrific.
Aha! After some searching, I found this:
Bouguereau's masterpiece of dynamic composition, a scene from 'Dante's Inferno.'
In the Fifth Circle of Hell, on the banks of the River Styx, those damned for the sin of wrath fight each other through eternity, while the sullen and slothful languish helplessly. Dante and his guide through Hell, the ghost of the poet Virgil, observe from the left, while a demonic angel watches over all.
Here is the first glimpse of the Mona Lisa. We all thought it would be bigger. She seems so small in this enormous gallery, so you might be surprised to know that she is life-size. Mona Lisa or madam Lisa in English. She has plucked eyebrows, evidently it was all the rage and very fashionable. Evidently her eyebrows were plucked to make her forehead look very high. Yes this is fashionable bit! She doesn't have any eyelashes either. She is sitting in front of a strange landscape. As she looks about, she seems amused, she is smiling ever so slightly. It is this tender yet mocking expression that comes across so strongly, even through the thick safety glass. This was supposed to be Leonardo da Vinci's favourite painting. He kept it with him and finally it was bought by the King of France. Leonardo shapes the face by gradually fading from light to darkness. This "sfumato" technique is so good that there is not a single contour line on her. The peaceful expression was important in the Renaissance as a person's face was supposed to reflect the soul within. The painting was stolen from the Louvre in 1911. The thief was caught three years later when he tried to sell it in Florence, so now she is even more famous!
The Louvre from the outside.
This is the apartment we stayed on in Florence. It was probably the best place as there was lots of room, it was very smart, and very reasonably priced. Even better were the paintings. Every wall had paintings by Alexander Schlatter. You can't google this artist, as all his paintings are kept by the family. We forgot to take many photos but in the next one, you can see a stuffed cat. The owner like stuffed animals!
We were on the lookout for work by Michelangelo, this is one of his pieces of work, but it was never finished. Here is Christ, just taken down from the cross, held by the two Marys and and another chap whose name I have forgotten. However this man is supposed to be a self portrait of Michelangelo. It was never finished because he found a flaw in the marble in Jesus's leg. He hated the black marks that would appear in the marble occasionally as he chiselled into it, so he chopped these bits out and just stopped. This was later finished by one of his pupils but the leg of Jesus and Mary's arm are missing.
Brunelleschi's dome has already been mentioned under the Churches Post. But in the duomo museum the were amazing models and drawings that have been submitted for the competition to build the dome. There was also a display showing the beams and tools used to build the Dome. Since the dome was so far off the ground they could not use scaffolding so Brunelleschi inserted huge wooden beams into the Dome as it grew. You can still see some of the holes from when the beans were removed. He was the first person to invent safety rails to reduce the number of deaths. He also had a cafe up there so that the workers didn't need to come down to lunch. Since it was Italy, I guess they also had beds for an afternoon siesta!
Another Etruscan artefact from the same museum in Orvieto, a town in Umbria. I really liked this little (sea) horse figure.